Dear All,

I thought I’d share some more details about my recent research trips to Paris.

Due to time and financial constraints, I was initially reluctant to include the Panthéon on my itinerary as my project concentrates on the Consular and First Empire periods and the Panthéon’s primary concern is with the Revolutionary period. Yet there must be some degree of ‘overlap’ when writing about Napoleonic Paris so I put it down as a ‘definite maybe’ for my most recent trip. To cut a long story short, I am really glad that I managed a visit.

My first impression of this building was that it clearly resembles St Pauls Cathedral (London) and the Pantheon (Rome). This was the deliberate intention of the main Architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot who began building this great church in 1757 on behalf of King Louis XV. It was finished in 1790 and the Revolutionaries decided to use it as a Panthéon to house their heroic dead. Napoleon ordered the church re-consecrated in 1806 but insisted that it retain its revolutionary purpose as a vast tomb for French heroes.

I was also struck by the great size of this structure and its importance to Paris and France became increasingly clear due to the number of visitors gathered before it looking up in wonder at its facade or joining the long queues to enter it. The great pillars of the portico were hung with numerous Tricolours and the presence of half a dozen groups of schoolchildren and students on tours was also immediately apparent as we approached.

Napoleonic enthusiasts will be impressed by the decoration of the pediment (triangular roof section above the portico). The current relief was sculpted in 1830 and shows the ‘Mother of the Country’ bestowing laurels to great Frenchmen with politicians on her right and the military to her left. Numerous symbols are set in stone here including the Revolutionary Coq Gaulois (Gallic Rooster) and Imperial Eagle. Prominent among the soldiers is General Bonaparte, reaching up to grasp his laurel and shown bareheaded.

Numerous soldiers stand around Bonaparte but he is the only obviously recognisable individual with the others portraying various troop types. On the other side are depictions of Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau and other great statesmen and some of these men now rest in the catacombs within. The pediment is crowned with the words AUX GRAND HOMMES LA PATRIE RECONNAISSANTE (To the great men – their grateful homeland). When you consider that this is the last of four reliefs placed above the portico since 1790 (the others being removed due to their political significance) it is easy to see why this building is considered so important.

The interior is no less spectacular with an incredible vaulted ceiling and it is designed in the shape of a cross like most cathedrals. Scenes from the life of St-Geneviéve (patron saint of Paris) and Joan of Arc are prominent among the murals especially on the left hand side. Enthusiasts will be more intrigued by monuments dedicated ‘to the Glory of the Generals of the Revolution’ by Paul Gasq standing in the central area of the church. An equestrian statue of Bonaparte is a dominant piece among these works and he is once again shown bareheaded and in Revolutionary period uniform.

Instead of an altar, a huge sculpture of ‘Mother France’ stands with politicians saluting her with Roman salutes to this statue’s right and soldiers marching out from behind her on her left. These are larger than life size and this column of soldiers marching three abreast is led by a mounted officer and two drummer boys. Some of the soldiers are clearly hard bitten ‘old campaigners’ with huge moustaches and a grizzled appearance to match. This is the National Convention Monument in honour of the declaration of the First Republic (commissioned during the Third Republic). I have rarely seen such a powerful monument and it is worth entering the Panthéon to see this alone.

Behind the monument stand further statues of republican politicians and generals along with an impressive wall painting by Detaille entitled ‘Victory Leading the Armies of the Republic.’ This depicts French cavalry riding up towards the figure of Victory mounted on a winged horse and, while romanticised and a little excessive, it is quite stunning.

Stairwells to the side allow access to the crypt below where many French people have been ‘panthéonised’ including Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, Marat, Zola and Braille. More modern interments include Jean Moulin (French Resistance WWII), Marie Curie and Alexandre Dumas. Two important tombs for the Imperial period are those of Marshal Jean Lannes who was mortally wounded at Wagram 1809. He received a hero’s funeral with a massive military cortege starting at Gros Caillou and marching to the Panthéon. Most tombs here are fairly plain but Lannes’ is one of the exceptions with flags set behind it and military honours hung upon the walls. Cavalry General Frédérick Walther is also interred here after dying of privation in 1813, marking the tragic end of a distinguished career. There are over fifty individuals entombed here who gained prominence in 1789-1815.

A few things did surprise me about the Panthéon. I thought Soufflot deserved a more prominent place and more decorative tomb as the man who had designed and built this grand edifice. Yet perhaps the honour of being entombed with so many great Frenchmen and women is perhaps enough and his tomb is certainly more ornate than many others. Considering that Victor Hugo enjoys great prominence in France to this day and was given a state funeral passing under the Arc de Triomphe, I was intrigued to see that his tomb is simple and virtually unadorned, which is clearly deliberate and in keeping with most others. I also thought that we would be permitted to climb to the walkway just below the cupola, where great views of the French capital can be seen, but this is currently closed to the public.

My brief description scratches the surface here but I think most enthusiasts visiting the Panthéon will find it a highly rewarding experience. Here are some visitors details – opens 10:00am-6:30pm daily (closing 6:00pm Oct-March) but is closed to the public on 1 January, 1 May and 25 December. For details and up to date ticket prices Tel: 01 44 32 18 00 or online: https://www.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/Discovery-area/Pantheon-Paris

So here is another great reason to visit Paris. If other members have visited the Panthéon recently, I would be very interested to hear their impressions of it.

Regards,

David