Napoleon Series Archive 2018

Re: Panthéon - tomb of heroes
In Response To: Re: Panthéon - tomb of heroes ()

It sounds like you've been to most of the main Napoleonic locations Kevin. If I could add that there are a host of 'minor' sites with connections to Napoleon and his times that are also worth a look. For example, the Fontaine de Palmier, Marshal Ney's statue, Barrière de Clichy monument, Hotel de Ville, Luxembourg Palace, Notre Dame Cathedral, Saint Sulpice Church, Hotel de Beauharnais, Palais de Elysée etc. Indeed, every time that I visit Paris I encounter something new, which is both a blessing and a curse in terms of writing about it. Furthermore, while I am concentrating on 1800-1815, I find the history of Paris both before and after that period intoxicating and it's very easy to stray from the path so to speak.

I didn't think I'd have time to visit St Sulplice and was really glad that events conspired to allow me to. It's connection with Napoleon is slight as the location of a great feast held for him and other Republican generals shortly after his return from Egypt. Politicians, civil servants and soldiers present were wondering whether he would shortly be assuming power or going to the guillotine as his planned coup d'etat was an open secret. He had been warned that someone might attempt to poison him here and many diners were appalled when he declined the fine food served to him and pulled out a packed lunch and his own bottle of wine instead!

Yet St Sulpice is worth seeing for its incredible façade and interior alone. Two enormous oyster shells are used to hold holy water near the entrance and were given to the church by the monarchy, gilded and set on carved pedestals by Pigalle. These are examples of many objects of religious and historical interest displayed inside this incredible church. It has recently become even more famous for the brass 'Meridian Line' set into the church floor between its two transepts. This was portrayed as the 'Rose Line' by Dan Brown in the Da Vinci Code who claimed it was connected to a secret society and the location of the Holy Grail. However, the church insists that the line and the gnomon it runs up to are used to indicate the time of religious festivals when light passes through a window set into the southern transept at various times of year rather than anything secret or sinister. I was looking forward to seeing the notices the church had put up refuting Brown's claims but sadly they've removed them, probably because they provoked even grater interest and questions from annoying tourists like myself. On the other hand, St Sulpice has seen a massive increase in visitors due to Brown's work and the gnomon is a fascinating 18th century device whatever you think it's real purpose may be.

Ultimately there are a host of incredible things to see in Paris and I find it very hard to avoid being distracted by other periods. Even the relatively modern Pere Lachaise Cemetery (started by Napoleon during the Consulate) has so much of interest contained within its walls that it was impossible to avoid a few brief references to them. For example, the Communards famous last stand that was fought there, which is fascinating but has little to do with Napoleon. Yet a chapter on the cemetery ought to contain a paragraph or two about that event, which is quite a dilemma when you have a tight word count to conform to. The Louvre and Les Invalides are equally distracting in this regard due to the incalculable number of historical treasures that they hold in their collections.

The good news is that Paris is an incredible place and a historian's dream location. Even after I've finished my current project, I predict that I will be returning again and again as this city rarely disappoints.

I hope you have a wonderful time in Paris during your next visit.

Regards,

David

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